Method of manufacturing stitch-down shoes



June i925); Y K l 1,543,099

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METHOD oF MANUFACTURING 'sTTCH-Do'w' SHOES Filed April 10. 1924l Iii/venan Patented june 23 i925.

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- METHOD or iaannrficwnne samen- DOWN sHoEs.

To @ZZ 107mm t may concern.'

Be it knowntha't I, fyViLLraM Coivniin, a the United States, residing lat l'intlirep', in the countyl of SnffollgjState ef lviassachusetts, have invented acertain i and u ul Improvementin Methods of lniufactur n .Stitch-Down Shoes, Aof which the fellowin is a specification, reference bei vhad ther nto the accomlianyingA drawings. l Y l The invention has relation to themanufacture Yof shoesLland-in particular to the manufacture ofgshcesof vthe class l'nownas "-downshatis te. say, shoesin which he secured to, tliefoutturned,margin ie upper o -i' vamp by stitches vpassing "ally tlu'ough suchniargin and that of rea* edge of the bof; toe, pas-:te being applied to cause the upper'and the box toe tc adhere to each other and give stifi' ness to the toe part of the shoe after the Withdrawal ofthe last. The assembling operation has been performed by applying the combined box toe andupper to a last having a sole attached to the same, pressing the cement-covered margin of the box toe against the margin of the sole, and the cement-covered margin of the upper against the proximate surface of the margin of the boi; toe, and applying the lasting stitches or tacks by which the parts are held in assembled relations. Eisplacement of the upper and box toe relative to the sole, resulting for example in disposing the line of stitches aforesaid at an inclination transversely of the shoe, is liable to occur as the marginalV portions of the upper and unshaped box toe or stilfener are being pressed down into shape and proper place, and as the` stitches orother lasting fastenings are being applied.

rifhe object of the present invention is to simplify and expedite the assembling of fore-part of the upper: andengaging with vthe parts of a stitch-down shoe upon the last. and avoid the liability aforesaid to displacement of the box toe and upper rela tive to the sole.

operation, by means of a line of ing thieru'pper and..performingfthe.lasting and remaining operations. The invention consists, `gfurther, in .an imvproveinent vin theH manufacture #of lined stitcli-down shoes. 'i

, company ing drawings, in .Whichf- Fig. l is an isometric vie\ preparer` unit madeaccordmg to therinventipn,

Fig. 2 shows jsuch .a vprepared unit 4appliedvand secured toy alast,- the heel-part ofv ,the latter beingV partly,brokensaivay, v a porv.tion of a shoe lining being r represented in connection with the [forepart of .the last.

` Fig. 3 atop vieni ofthe forepart a stitch-:down shoe.

Fig. 4 is a section on line H of Fig. 3.

Having reference to the drawings,-

In accordance with the invention, the box toe or stiliiener l, instead of being combined with the upper or vamp as heretofore prior to the assembling operation, and in its usual unshaped form, is given its final form by pressing or otherwise, and is joined to the fore-part of the sole 2 in its proper position, as in l, preferably by means of cement or glue applied to the outturned margin ll of the box toe, or if desired by means of stitches, staples, or the like fastening devices. The unit thus prepared may be quickly and accurately positioned upon a last 3, as in Fig. 2, by inserting the toe of the last Within the box toe or stiifener l, following which the unit will be made fast to the bottom of the last. A single tack l driven through the heel part of the sole, as in Fig. 2, will suflice.

In the operations of assembling, etc., the vamp or upper 6, Figs. 3 and 4.-, having the underside of its marginal portion coated with cement is drawn over the last, its cement-coated margin is pressed down into place upon the flange of the box toe and the margin of the sole, the lasting' stitches 9 or other lasting fastenings are then applied, and the remaining operations are perfor ied The invei)tion lis illustrated Athe aca in usual manner. Usually, paste or cement is applied over the top surface of the boX toe, or a proper portion thereof, before the upper is placed in Contact with such surface.

My invention not only facilitates and eX- pedites the Work, but it obviates the tendency to displacement of the upper, box toe, and vamp seam, such as occurs with undesirable frequency in prior methods of making stitch-down shoes wherein the boX toe or stiifener is secured as aforesaid to Vthe vamp.

In case it is desired to provide the shoe With a lining 7, Figs. 2 and 4, such lining is first drawn smoothly into place upon the last, and caused to enclose by its margins an inner sole 8 which has been attached to the last in the ordinary manner by tacks, and then a prepared unit such as is shown in Fig. l is applied over the lining and the said inner sole 8 as indicated in Figs. 2 and 4, followed by Working the vamp or upper into place, etc., as outlined above. As will be apparent, the Work is more readily and con-y veniently performed than when the shoe is assembled, etc., in conformity with the old practices at present followed.

Sole 2 may constitute the wear-sole of a finished shoe, or may have an outsole attached thereto.

1What is claimed as the invention is 1. The improvement inv the method of manufacturing stitch-down shoes Which consists in first preparing a unit comprising a if sole having a box toe or stiifener attached to the forepart thereof, then applying` the unit thus prepared to a last by inserting the toe of the last Within the said boX toe, then making fast the heel part of the sole to the last, and then applying the upper and performing the lasting and remaining operations.

. 2. The improvement in the method of manufacturing stitchdovvn shoes which consists in first preparing a unit comprising a sole having a box toe or stiffener attached to the forepart thereof, then applying the unit thus prepared to a last by inserting the toe of the last Within the said box toe or stiffener, then securing the heel part of the sole to the last by a single tack, and then applying the upper and performing the lasting and remaining operations.

3. The improvement in the method of manufacturing lined stitch-down shoes which consists in applying an inner sole to a last, drawing a lining' into place around the last and fastening the margins of said lining at the exposed surface of said inner' sole, preparing a unit comprising a sole having a box toe or stiifener attached to the fore-part thereof, applying the unit thus prepared to the said last by inserting the lining-covered toe of the last Within the said box toe or stiffener, making fast the heel part of the said unit to the last, and then performing the lasting and remaining operations.

WILLAM H. COXELL. 

